Georgians regularly meet to enjoy a supra (feast) where tables groan under the weight of traditional dishes. Like all good feasts, a central component of a supra is the toast where Georgian wine - an ancient seat of winemaking and home to over 500 varieties of grape - is quaffed with alacrity. The point is if Georgian wine is the blood of the people, these toasts are the heart. All supras have Tamada: The Toastmaster, Patriarch of Georgian Feasting, who is not a mere ‘toastmaster’. He is the collective soul of the Georgian people. He is warm and welcoming, a proud father and a dedicated son, a patriot, and an admirer of women. He is an incurable romantic, deeply nostalgic, and he has a kind word for everyone. There is not a feast too informal for him to attend. If there is wine – and there always is – there is Tamada.

Tamada is the toast master who manages the supra like an orchestra conductor. He is the leader of the table who sets the tone and mood of the supra. Each toast is devoted to a different theme. The first few follow a prescribed order, before they become more specific to the guests and circumstances of the supra. Toasts are typically given to God (first), Georgia, family, the mother of God, friendship and so on to other themes like wine, beauty, love of women, etc. “Alaverdi” is given to selected participants to make complimentary toasts on the subject toasted byTamada.

Tamada rules the night. He (99% of the time it’s a “he”) introduces every toast, standing and expounding on some theme with a full glass (or bowl, or horn) of wine in hand. At every occasion where wine is to be consumed, even if only two men are present, one of them is selected to be tamada. The ideal tamada should not only be knowledgeable, witty, and articulate, but also a good drinker. In addition, Tamada ought to be eloquent, intelligent, smart, sharp−witted and quick−thinking, with a good sense of humor because very often some of the guests might try to compete with him on the toast making.

While Tamada toasts, the other guests raise their glasses, but do not drink. After Tamada has spoken, the toast continues. The next guest who wishes to speak stands, raises his glass, elaborates on the theme of the toast, and then drains his glass to the bottom in one gulp. Eating is entirely appropriate during toasts, but talking is frowned upon.

Being Tamada is both laborious and an art form. Because Georgians only drink after a toast is made, it is up to Tamada to set the pace for the festivities. He must sense the shifting moods and make people drink more if they are too sober and drink less if they are too drunk. If he is losing the attention of a guest, he must engage and inspire him with a carefully selected toast or by encouraging the best singers present to perform. He must be forceful enough to take charge in every situation, without appearing commandeering or disrupting the romantic atmosphere.

In conclusion, Tamada is a Georgian toastmaster at a Georgian Supra (feast). At all Supras regardless of size, there is Tamada (or toastmaster), one person who introduces each toast. Georgians like to say that Tamada is a leader or even a teacher of the table. At the Georgian table Tamada bridges the gap between past, present and then the future. It seems that not only the guests, but their ancestors and descendants are invisibly present at the table. Tamada toasts them with the same love and devotion as the other members of the table. So, traditional Georgian Supra is the cultural heritage of Georgian people.